A Different Kind Of New Year

Tomorrow would be the first day of the new year-not by the Gregorian calendar though. It’s the first of Moharram, the start of the Islamic calendar, and the Islamic sect of Bohris has a specific way of celebrating.

This year, two families merged together for this occasion. Dishes were lavishly prepared and set out, and we all sat on the floor around the thaal, ready to dig in. The large, flat silver surface groaned under the weight of numerous dishes. As per tradition, the meal started with a pinch of salt. This ritual out of the way, we move on to a taste a small plate of rice and sprinkles. Two additives that conventionally belong to savoury meals and desserts, respectively, mesh well together. As sprinkles are crushed under teeth, the sweetness mingles with the mild saltiness of rice, preparing us for the food ahead.

Next is the traditional South-Asian dish, kheer. Cold and smooth, the rice pudding slides over my tongue in just the right consistency: not too runny, not too lumpy. Delicious as it is, this sweet treat makes me hunger for the saltier foods, and so we progress on to the next round.

After the customary bite of flat roti and gur, each person chooses from a variety of small portions of food, in this case being koftay and kababs. The sugarcane is lumpy and hard and sickeningly sweet, so the gur is to be avoided, but alternating between a bite of spicy but dry kabab and moist meatballs makes the obligation to eat the entire roti somewhat bearable.

It was the chhollay here that salvaged this course. Boiled to softness, the chickpeas and potatoes will melt in your mouth. Drenched in tamarind chutney, the thin, crispy papri, a bright orange against the dull brown chhollay, juxtaposes both in sight and in a bite. The addition of coriander and onions tops off this scrumptious side, and for those daring enough, a sprinkle of chaat masala adds just the perfect amount of tang.

The fish remained untouched when someone mentioned that seafood and milk together lead to disastrous consequences, and of course no one would give up dessert for this salty sea creature. And so, we moved on to haleem. Steam rises from this viscous liquid. A hand extends to squeeze lemon onto the surface, and then coriander and fried onions are dusted on. This bland concoction of blended wheat and meat now flavoured, I take a large spoonful, spluttering at the unexpected heat. The second bite is savoured, as the freshness of the herb mingles with the sour citrus.

Finally, the dish everyone anticipates: a homemade dessert with a crumbled cookie layer, topped with frozen cream, and finally, chocolate sauce and smooth peaches! We all attack like savages, adults and children alike, spoons delving deep down to get the perfect combination of crunchy biscuit and soft cream.

As the circle reaches its end with this sweet dish, we each taste a lick of salt, reclining back in the living room, ready to dive into a new year.